Beautiful clothes are like a letter of recommendation. (Italian proverb) The worse things go for you, the better you should dress. (English proverb) Good clothes do not make bad clothes good (Ossetian proverb) Beautiful and in ugly clothes she is beautiful (Uzbek proverb) “I wear only expensive, branded things...” - with this phrase one of my clients began a story about herself. “I would never wear consumer goods...” What is this about? About self-esteem, of course, but also... about the fact that clothes have long become something more than just clothes. “Hardly any of the modern consumers seriously believe that by going to a department store for another tie, sandals or handbag, we satisfy our the need for warmth and physical comfort, as our distant ancestors did when making clothes from skins. Probably, even their skins were divided not only into summer and winter, but also into beautiful and ugly, prestigious and simple, fashionable and outdated” (A. Fenko). Clothing is a symbol of belonging to a certain “circle”, an indicator of status, place in the hierarchy... or, at a minimum, the presence of claims to it, because clothes do not always “tell” the truth about their owner, it often happens that the impression it creates turns out to be erroneous: poor clothes do not always indicate the poverty of the one who wears them ( for example, it is well known that many “obscenely” rich people in the West dress very poorly), and rich clothes do not always confirm the wealth of the owner (maybe almost all savings are spent on buying them?), but the clothes you choose always convey some kind of message, written in the language of symbols (whether you like it or not)… “You can lie in the language of dress just as you can do it in English, French or Latin, and this kind of deception has an advantage; Usually one cannot accuse a liar of doing so deliberately. A suit that speaks of youth or wealth - unlike a verbal statement that you are 29 years old and that your income is measured in six figures - cannot be directly refuted or condemned" (A. Lurie). And before everything was so simple... Clothes were reliable a distinctive sign expressing complex concepts of social life. For example, it clearly indicated a person’s nationality and class, his property status and age... For example, clothing could tell whether a woman had reached marriageable age, whether she was single or already married, whether she had children. The clothes of children, adults, old people, widows, soldiers, old maids, etc. were clearly distinguished. Clothes that existed at different times, in different classes and in different areas of Rus', of course, had specific features. They were manifested in the manner of wearing a suit, in the number of items included in its composition, in the color scheme, cut, nature of decorations, ornaments, etc., but, nevertheless... As an example, let’s take a headdress. “Unmarried girls could walk with their heads uncovered or with a headdress that left the top of their head open (sometimes even in church). Since everything on the girl was hidden by multi-layered clothes, the open “top of her head” was intended to emphasize her beauty, to the delight of good fellows. In Rus', girls wore crowns (a crown is a symbol of girlhood). When a girl got married, she said goodbye to her crown, or the groom stole it. Her head was covered with a woman’s headdress - a “document” about her marriage. Now no one except her husband could see her. hair and remove her headdress. Color of clothing and ornament. For example, in the Vologda region, a tree was depicted on the shirts of pregnant women; white swans were embroidered on the clothes of unmarried girls; unmarried girls preparing for a wedding or old women wore a blue sundress. But the red sundress was worn by those who had just gotten married. The more time passed after the wedding, the less red the woman used in her clothes. Old maids did not have the right to wear the clothes of married women" (History of Russian Costume). Easy on clothessocial position was determined. The outfits of the nobility at all times were distinguished by the fine workmanship of the fabric, precious jewelry, special colorful patterns and greater length... As for shoes, even among the ancients their very presence was traditionally an attribute of a free person (slaves walked barefoot), etc. etc....And now?...What actually has changed? Yes, over time, the number of messages that can be conveyed to others with the help of clothing has increased; the design of appearance contains second and third plans, hidden meanings and additional levels of complexity... Today, clothing is deliberately used to create a certain impression (for example, manuals on the ability to dress - to dress in such a way as to achieve success in life, get married, have a lover, etc.) ... “A person himself, using individual objects as “words” of a special sign system, is able to compose symbolic messages from them that express his identity, values ​​and personal meanings” (A. Fenko). But such a “text” is even easier to “read”... Clothes are a reflection of a person’s personal attitudes and lifestyle... By demonstrating our clothes, we thereby unwittingly demonstrate our inner world. A person's appearance reflects his character. How a suit is worn, what details are added to it, what combinations it is made in - all these are features that reveal the individuality of the owner. A certain element sometimes informs more about a person than the most detailed biography, because many of us do not think about the impression we make, and, more often than not, our unconscious plays the main role in choosing clothes - it acts for us... I think no one will argue that untidiness in clothes, unkempt hair, dirty shoes and the like speak very eloquently about the person himself. But, on the other hand, a person about whom one would like to say “ironed from head to toe,” blowing away specks of dust, with an impeccably straight tie and polished nails, Look at the shoes: Real pictures, And the laces, no matter where, And always polished. (from a children's poem) on the one hand, impresses, and on the other, gives rise to the fantasy that he is inclined to attach excessive importance to little things in other areas of life (some experts even believe that people suffering from obsessive-compulsive disorder show especially exaggerated care in dressing neurosis).Nevertheless, you should not underestimate the choice of clothing, because it is a unique means of attracting attention to your personality, influencing others, creating a certain image (and, accordingly, a certain attitude)... Remember? “He was remarkable in that he always, even in very good weather, he went out in galoshes and with an umbrella and certainly in a warm coat with cotton wool,” Chekhov says about Belikov (“The Man in a Case”), “And he had an umbrella in a case, and a watch in a case made of gray suede, and when he took out his penknife to sharpen his pencil, he had the knife in its case; and his face seemed to be in a case, since he kept hiding it in his raised collar... “What image of a person does your imagination draw? Most likely, a portrait of a formalist and a bore, always afraid “that something might not work out”... trying to “frame” life itself... Do you have a desire to get to know him better? For me, it’s somehow not very good (well, maybe out of professional interest, and even then not particularly...). In clothes, everything is important, starting from the style, color, fabric, texture, the presence of additional decorations, etc., age appropriateness, status and situation... Let's take a close look at those around us (members of the therapeutic group, for example). Around us are a variety of people: a lady of an “elegant” age, with lined eyeliner, bright lips, in a short skirt, a girl in camouflage and military boots, a guy in a formal suit and carefully polished shoes, a man of about 40 in a T-shirt with a picture of a cartoon character etc. What would you think of these people if you accidentally met them on the street? What do their clothes say? What attracts you to her and what repels you? Clothes,which “speaks for us”...If we consider a person as a “product” (cynically, but nevertheless), then what does his “packaging” “speak” about? What target audience is it intended for? “It’s ridiculous to spend more on packaging than on the gift itself, but they are welcomed by it.” (E. Ermolova) For example, clothes and general appearance: “sexy” (and clearly not age-appropriate)? “I’m still young, I’m still on the “sexual-marriage market” ....” “A very tight, uncomfortable miniskirt always looks like a need to draw attention to one’s own sexuality (especially if you have to constantly pull it back). The openness of clothing in the chest area also speaks for itself” (A.S. Kuminov). And in combination with bright makeup... A miniskirt is not clothing. This is intrigue. (I. Karpov) “Children’s” elements of clothing (for example, children’s drawings on a T-shirt) usually indicate the need to return to a child’s state of guardianship: “I’m still a boy, don’t expect responsibility and seriousness from me”...Very often the behavior of such people as if he were saying: “Don’t take me seriously. I do not belong to the category of adults, and I cannot be counted on as an adult.” Such people are playful, but not like someone who loves to play, but like someone who does not want (or cannot) appear serious. Tragic events are talked about with laughter or nonchalance, as if they are not worth wasting time on. They talk a lot about their shortcomings (with a tendency to exaggerate). Achievements and successes are presented in a funny light or such a story is followed by a list of failures. The conversation often jumps from one topic to another. By allowing themselves unusual freedom to blurt out naive questions or resort to childish ways of speaking, they show that they are still small...Using photographs of famous people on T-shirts (or certain slogans and mottos), etc. can serve as an indicator of a person’s need for authorities and idols (i.e., “hint” at the lack of power qualities...) or express a “life credo”... Take a close look at what ideals a person worships? What's on the chest? "Hammer and sickle"? Nostalgia for times gone by? Or its meaning is: What is this about? Joke? Maybe, maybe... Or maybe this is written on the T-shirt?... It’s a completely different impression, right? Does the girl have a “military” style? “Life is war (struggle). I’m looking at you from the trench, are you in the “sight”, if anything “Get a grenade, fascist?”...Such a woman, like a warrior, often defends what is important to her, she is ready to die for her principles...Energetic, adamant and merciless. On foreign territory he loses neither determination nor calmness. A challenging woman... A fighter... Well, or a woman who would like to be like that... (one should distinguish whether this or that element of clothing or their combination is a projection of an internal state, character, or a projection of an internal lack, a need to satisfy...). Boring “official” (uniform) always and in everything? “I’m ready to play by the rules, adhere to the dress code, because I want to “win” in life?” Formal wear is a way for me to hide my individuality...? The closest thing to an ideal uniform is a military uniform, on which the regulations define the place of every button and every seam... A step to the left, a step to the right, a shooting... A tie is an office collar. (R. Aleev) Demonstratively simple clothes (for example, jeans and a cotton T-shirt for all occasions) may indicate a desire not to clutter up your life with unnecessary things and be accompanied by the motto: “Live an outwardly simple, but internally rich life.” “Supporters of this style voluntarily abandon the generally accepted consumer code, symbolizing the collective identity of bourgeois society” (A. Fenko). And vice versa, expensive, luxurious clothes for all occasions: silk, brocade, fur..., the presence of gold jewelry, precious stones...emphasizes the idea of ​​wealth, power, and the value of the material side of life. This image of the “wearer” fascinates, dazzles, delights or frightens... It is important for people who dress like this in life to have power over others, to emphasize theirhigh status...Clothes can inspire a person with self-confidence (or lack of confidence), and cause others to trust (or distrust) him...Good clothes elevate a person not only in the eyes of others, but also in his own eyes. (I. Shevelev) “It is traditionally believed that dressing in clothes that cover the entire body, as if externally supporting internal restrictions and prohibitions, reflects the need for security and lack of power to feel safe, and loose, light and comfortable clothes correspond to greater emancipation. How An example is long, narrow skirts or dresses - women who actually hold their legs (“straitjackets”) and “comfortable” flowing spacious dresses...” (Kuminov A.S.). Remember the hippie outfits with their idea of ​​freedom? - You don’t wear shoes? - I don’t like keeping my feet locked up... (Film “Barefoot on the Pavement”) Although, let’s not touch on the clothes typical of representatives of certain subcultures, this is a separate topic ...But clothes also have color and texture. Trousers or trouser suits on a woman (especially made of hard, heavy, thick, rigid materials), made in traditionally “masculine” colors, quite possibly indicate her need for power. But a woman in a man’s suit still remains a woman... “I am created from opposites, from strength and weakness, from light and shadow,” says such an outfit. And “the emphasized use by men of generally accepted “feminine” elements (jewelry, traditionally feminine colors, for example) in clothing perhaps expresses the need to protestly increase one’s sexuality by attracting additional attention to oneself (hystericality?)...And what does clothing made of fur and leather mean? on the one hand, the skin of a killed creature is on oneself (a symbol of power), and on the other, fur clothing is often used as a symbol of sexuality: a fur coat, like the own fur coat of a warm and fluffy female" (A.S. Kuminov). What does the choice "scream" about? red clothes? About the demonstration of sexuality or power (or the need for it)? What are you wearing this red dress for, Like a flame in the embrace of a free fire? (Shtar) Ah, this legendary “red dress”... “Red” has traditionally merged in the concept of the people with “beautiful”, which is reflected in such definitions as “a red maiden”, “a red sun”, etc. What do we know about a woman in a red dress? For example: It is not a woman who wears a red dress, but a woman who wears a red dress... (author unknown) A woman in a red dress is dangerous, Her gaze pierces the target not in vain, She teases and beckons with her movements involuntarily, Captivating everyone voluntarily N. Gusarovskaya Red seemed forbidden, Attracted and scared us away. Everyone fell in love with a red dress at least once... A woman in red is dangerous, A woman don’t touch in red, A woman in red is beautiful, A woman in red is fire... Mikhail Guskov. Woman in red “American scientists from the University of Rochester have found scientific proof of the common truth that red in a woman’s clothing is the best way to attract the attention of men. . The psychologists' study appeared in the Journal of Personality and Social Psychology. 100 graduate students took part in the experiment. They had to not only rate the attractiveness and sexuality of the women in the photographs, but also tell them how they would spend $100 if they went on a hypothetical date. Participants in the experiment were shown a photograph of the same young woman, while changing the color of her clothes (red, blue, white, gray, etc.). As the study showed, a woman in red seemed much more attractive and desirable to men than the same woman the same woman, but with different colors of clothes. As a result, it turned out that men often invite women in red on a date and are ready to spend twice as much on such a woman. Psychologists explain this phenomenon by the primitive instincts of men; the fact is that in nature, red serves as a weapon of seduction: for example, baboons and chimpanzees are attracted to females who display red colors. Red -an exciting color, meaning both prohibition and permission. This distinctive combination is what gives the red dress such a strong impact. On the one hand, watch out for the stop sign, but on the other hand, pay attention and come closer. The red color also makes the woman herself more daring and decisive.” Clothes should be appropriate, appropriate to the situation (and time of year!)... Soft, light, thin, often transparent fabric is not suitable for business meetings, but is suitable for dates, to demonstrate the need for care and tenderness... elegant high-heeled shoes are not intended for a “mad race” through life or for friendly trips for beer and cleaning around the house, but they are good for dancing at a ball... Sometimes the phrase: - Come down from heaven to earth! - this is just a request to change your street shoes to indoor shoes. (V. Borisov). But comfortable shoes for every day: “low-speed”, worn in and not easily soiled - allow you to skip through life and do a lot of things. It is practical and democratic, but often does not allow you to see your slender legs... - What terrible shoes! - This is to prevent a snake from biting you. - Don’t let snakes determine your clothing style! (Film “White Oleander”) K. Jung believed that every person is born with a “complete personal sketch.” “Details of the implementation of the project to inform others about one’s personal characteristics will also appear in the choice of costume, determined by the meanings of various elements and properties of clothing” (Kuminov A.S.). After all, some people arbitrarily play with the meanings of things, combining a business suit with sneakers, a backpack with an evening dress, etc. And this, as a rule, is not a lack of taste, but a claim to originality and the manifestation of a creative approach... “The way they dress helps them experience their group identity and at the same time express their individuality” (A. Fenko)...” A separate element is cosmetics designed to exaggerate or, conversely, to diminish the symbolic meaning of various facial features (for example, emphasizing or “leveling” the lips as a “symbol of female genitalia” by using bleaching lipsticks that hide the lips, or, conversely, giving them bright red shades) "(A.S. Kuminov). By the way, by a person’s wardrobe you can determine with which role he primarily identifies himself. What kind of clothes predominates in it? Business style, demonstrating the image of “I am an employee” or...? And if you also pay attention to changes in taste preferences, remember that there is a clear discrepancy in color, texture, shape, etc. clothing to a person’s character can be seen as an attempt to direct the influence of clothing on someone... For example, the sudden choice of “sexy” tight and short clothes by a girl who usually wore long dresses is most often an indicator of a desire to be noticed. Or an unexpected transition to a classic (“adult”) suit by a young guy may be associated with the need to change his social status...Shoes can change your whole life! Ask Cinderella...(Someone)Has this ever happened to you? When and with what events or periods of your life was a change in style or color solutions associated? But there is also “Clothes that I would never wear...” (that is, an image in which I cannot imagine myself). A person is often “attributed” with traits (both positive and negative) associated with a particular clothing. For example, military uniform - discipline, determination; business suit - rigor, punctuality; performance; jeans - love of freedom, etc. What's in it for you? “Is there anything you can't stand in another person's clothes? Think about what clothes you would never wear? Draw this costume.” Questions for discussion: • What kind of clothes are these? Where and on whom did you see it?• If you met a person wearing such clothes, what would you think of him?• If you had to wear such clothes, how would you feel in them?• What personal qualities of its owner do you relate to? tie clothes that are unpleasant for you? Sometimes it’s interesting to understand what yourunconscious through the choice (rejection) of certain clothes... It is not true that “clothes make a person,” but it is true that individual details of an outfit can indicate the character of its owner. Freud explains this point from a psychotherapeutic point of view: “Everything that a person does with his clothes, often without even noticing it, is of no less important interest to the doctor and deserves his attention. Any change in the usual attire, any flaw, an unfastened button, for example, any detail that attracts attention, all this is a means of expressing something that the person himself does not want to talk about directly; as a rule, he does this completely unconsciously.” Therapeutic work with resources. If we dwell on the meaning of the symbolism of clothing as such, we can remember that “clothing is the personification of the inner essence, as well as the focus of strength, vital energy. The latter function is illustrated by the following episode of Sumerian mythology. Passing through the gates of the underworld, the goddess Inanna loses all her clothes, and at the same time her magical power, appearing naked and defenseless before the mistress of the underworld Ereshkigal" (Complete Encyclopedia of Symbols and Signs). On the one hand, like other covers, robes perform the function of protection , amulet (from wind, dust, cold, from the influence of evil forces, etc.), protection and, in some way, fencing; on the other hand, rites of purification and transition provided for getting rid of unclean or “outdated” (not corresponding to the new status) clothes and putting on new ones - that is, clothes were considered as a kind of outer shell capable of accumulating sins, negative states, “holding” the wearer in a certain role or, conversely, emphasizing the acquired status... For example, wedding clothes... A wedding is a kind of transition into different quality. This is death as a maiden and a young man and birth as a wife and husband. Hence the “mourning” in the groom’s clothes (mourning for his youth and carefree life), and the traditionally white clothes of the bride, symbolizing her innocence, purity and readiness to enter a new life. Do you have clothes that you need or want to take off? (How can we not remember feminists who demonstratively burn bras! (a symbol of enslavement). There is no form of clothing that cannot be turned into a form of protest. (M. Mamchich) “Children’s suit” that you have long outgrown... or a housewife’s outfit? ... Who gave you this clothing? What condition (or role) does this clothing symbolize or what type of clothing could this condition be (for example, depression or fear) Group members are sometimes asked to make a symbolic image of an outfit that they would like to get rid of? cut it out, attach it to clothing, and then remove it, commenting on what they are getting rid of... You can limit yourself to a “cleansing ritual,” or you can remember that various parts of clothing traditionally acted as talismans “There are many myths and fairy tales in which the hero. or the heroine, meeting with her supernatural assistants and patrons, receives from them a dress or some other item of clothing. These items are varied and include the following. (a) Headdress. In many stories, a crown, hat, or tiara on the head of the hero or heroine emphasizes their special status, rights, or role. It should also be taken into account that a headdress can symbolize the priority of the spiritual or rational principle and the importance of authority. Accordingly, the creation of a headdress serves as a sign of self-affirmation and acceptance of a spiritual mission or leadership position. By creating and trying on a headdress for himself, the client can experience himself in the role of a responsible, empowered person, as well as feel what it means to be visible and express his views and values. (b) Belt (not necessarily chastity))). This element of clothing “connects” the upper and lower halves of the body and can symbolize the protection of its integrity. Various important objects can be attached to the belt, with which a person can, if necessary,=451740).